Stuck in Albania

Shaleena
6 min readApr 10, 2024

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Skanderbeg Square, Tirana, Albania

All we knew of Albania came from friends who could not have been less enthusiastic about the place. We were warned that the food wasn’t good nor was there an abundance of it. We were made aware that comfort should not be expected as general lodging and transportation are bleak. We were also reminded that the language was, well, to put it mildly, impossible.

Honestly, I never expected to visit this place, but for some reason, fifteen years ago I started studying its language. I made notes in a journal about how to say “hello” and “goodbye” in this land that I couldn’t even place on a map.

And then the unexpected happened!

First, we stopped by for three days. Then, we were stuck there for three months.

My friends have their less-than-enthusiastic experiences in the land of the eagles, but that was so many years ago. I think they need to try again and I think you need to give it a go. Here’s why.

The Food is Actually Delicious

Taverna Fish-Time in Sarandë, Albania

Modern Albania’s food culture is influenced by Italian and Greek cuisine. Can you really go wrong with those? I don’t think so. Plus, Albania is still growing its own produce and hasn’t yet embraced the non-organic lifestyle of other parts of the world. Stuff just tastes better here.

Even if pasta and skewered meat isn’t your thing, you’re apt to find something you’ll like. They offer everything from fresh sourdough bread to grilled octopus to gelato to pizza and salad. If you’re interested in trying traditional Albanian fare, then I highly recommend it; they have some very yummy dishes.

Transportation is Crazy Fun

Taxis lined up in Tirana

Honestly, getting anywhere in Albania is crazy. It’s your outlook that matters. Once you get to where you need to go, you take a moment to laugh and appreciate the journey; after all, you made it.

We learned through experience that a ticket on a public bus or van does not mean you have bought a seat; it means you are riding in the vehicle. Whether or not you get a seat is a matter of timing or the kindness of other passengers. Check out our trip from Sarandë to Gjirokastor to get an idea of public transportation ala Albania.

Another lesson we learned about public transportation in Albania is that even the taxi drivers don’t know how to get where you want to go. We got into a taxi one day to ride to a popular shopping center, but the driver took us in a literal circle around the block. When he stopped to ask for directions, we realized he had no idea how to get to our destination. So, we jumped out and hailed a different taxi.

Walking around the Grand Park of Tirana

If you want to avoid public transportation, walking is always an option. Albanians love to walk and I don’t blame them. I spent an afternoon walking around Tirana by myself. I got quite lost. I saw the busy highway from a pedestrian’s perspective. I had more than a few quizzical looks directed at me. But, hey, nobody bothered me and I eventually found my way home. It was actually fun and not nerve-wracking and I’ve been in much sketchier situations.

Their History is Old and Awesome

Amphitheatre of Durrës

Sadly, I don’t know all about Albanian history, but I do know it goes back a long way. Because of its antiquity and the times of in-fighting or information-stifling, it can be difficult to get all the answers you’re looking for. But, for me, that gives Albania a mystique and only makes me more curious to dig into its past.

Since I can’t possibly run through the thousands of years of interesting Albanian history, I’ll just give you my top three points of interest. In no particular order, they are:

  • Sevasti Kyrias Dako — a native Albanian missionary who challenged the status quo in the nineteenth century and led a new generation of Albanian women to greater education, godliness, and boldness in how they lived.
The view from Rozafa (Shkodër) Castle
  • Rozafa Castle — While the castle remains seen today are more modern (Venetian era) the site actually dates back to Illyrian times. I love these ancient places, especially if they are obscure; it’s like I get to be a discoverer.
Outside Krujë Castle
  • Krujë — This is another obscure site from history. It actually played a very important role in European history, but most people don’t know about it. Take some time to read up on Skanderbeg and the sieges at the castle of Krujë. You’ll be glad you did. Also, there’s a very nice museum and shopping area here, so something for everyone.

Albanians are Beyond Friendly

Making friends at the park in Tirana

I cannot remember what my friends said about the people they met when they visited Albania but I’m sure they found that Albanians are super friendly (at least I hope they did). The people we met in Albania were over and beyond friendly and made our three-month-stint there a pleasant experience.

Culture is Celebrated

Celebrating American Week in Tirana

During our first visit, we happened to be there during American week, which felt really welcoming to us. But, they don’t stop there. During our longer stay, we saw the city celebrate half a dozen other countries. These celebrations brought in special celebrities to sing and speak.

The Scenery is Stunning

Now, if none of the former reasons are convincing you to visit the lovely country of Albania, then maybe a few glimpses of its scenery will.

Shkodër
Gjirokaster
Sarandë

Getting Unstuck

When it was all said and done, our three months of being stuck in Albania turned into a really awesome experience. Now, I just need to convince my friends to get unstuck from their off-putting experience and try it again. Hopefully then, they will say along with me that they don’t mind getting stuck in Albania anytime.

I purposely left the Albanian language off my list of reasons to visit, because, like I said, it’s impossible.

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